Biking in the Nilgiris

Destination(s): Ooty - Avalanche - Mudumalai

Dates: 14,15-mar, 2009

Day 1:

Well it was almost 11.30 when I was ready and was given the bike keys. For a hired motorcycle, I expected a dusty, never serviced, partially brake-less old model one. It was a pleasant surprise when i saw a near brand new Honda shine. I was more so relieved as the gear system was akin to my bike's. And so, with loads of excitement for a first time drive in the hills, it was get set vrrroooooooom!

Doddabetta:

To get to doddabetta, one needs to take the road leading to kothagiri (another small town in the nilgiris) for a few kms and at a fork junction, take the right and travel for 1 or 2 kms. Once you take the right, the road is a lot narrow and steep with tall bamboo trees all over on the sidelines. A treat to watch :)





Avalanche:

After the return from doddabetta, I was determined to visit Avalanche, a secluded small village around 34 km from ooty. I came to know about the place in my favourite travel forum - http://www.indiamike.com/ , where one of the members had posted an amazing trip report on the place.




The drive was awesome, the roads deserted, its only you and the mighty hills all around, small villages en route where children wave to you, an occasional bus coming on the opposite side, no sights of tourist crowd, its just wonderful!





After the tiring drive, had lunch in one of the restaurants on the commercial road and retired for the afternoon. After catching some sleep, got up late evening and decided to check out the botanical gardens. The gardens were huge, and ideal for a picnic kinda activity. Two large groups of college students were having fun in the huge lawn space in the front when I got reminded of 'those golden days'.





After the visit, decided to roam around to get a familiarity of the topography. Zipped across the winding narrow streets, did some window shopping here and there and it was almost 7 30. So decided to get back to the hotel and call it a day after a good dinner.

Day 2:

It was 5 30 as I was woken by the jarring alarm on my mobile phone. It was 6 when I could finally manage to get out of the bed and get steady on my foot. I had three options for the morning - a. Parsons valley, b.Kothagiri, c. again mudumalai-masinagudi. a. was ruled out as I learnt from the caretaker that there was nothing so scenic there except if you are going to trek. There was a stiff competition between b and c, but the reminiscence of the steep climb along 36 hair-pin bends from masinagudi pulled me towards option c. It was 6 30 and with my woolen gloves and a cap, I set off towards mudumalai.

I was quite familiar with the route as we did the same journey other way a couple of months back. It was shivering cold and I somehow managed to ride through NH 67 towards talaikundah on the way to gudalur. The first glimpse of the morning sun was so refreshing for the soul.



My first stop en route was at pykara, where I decided to have my breakfast at 7.30. The place was deserted with no tourists and a few locals walking by. Walked into a north-indian dhaba where I had to wait for half an hour to get my aloo parathas. Poor guy, he wouldn't hae expected a customer so early in the morning, he had to go somewhere, get the flour and start everything! :P And the view from the place is indescribable! The golden sun rising over the might ranges of the nilgiris with its rays falling on a small lake in a small valley below was a spectacular sight :) Needs to be experienced though!





It was around 9 when I entered the mudumalai forest area as I was requested by a man working in the forest dept to drop me at kargudi en route to thepakkadu. We had a small discussion about the forest fires, water shortage, et al in the sanctuary. After I dropped him, I was on the constant look out for some wildlife on both the sides. A vast area of the forest was visible since most of the trees have gone dry near the highway. It was a very quiet theppakadu junction this time, given that the sanctuary is closed; had a cup of tea at the refreshment stall opp the forest dept office and rode off towards masinagudi. I was not disappointed as the usual sightings were there - the deers, the langurs, a cute peacock crossing the road and ofcourse a variety of strange species of birds. The 7 km ride towards masinagudi was so thrilling, the forests dry, and the hopes high :P The elusive cat family never showed up though. After half an hour, I was all set at the base to take on the ascent., the thrill knew no bounds. Honda shine outperformed my expectations and made its way though the consecutive winding hair-pins with great comfort. I was having a ball negotiating through the rough turns every now and then. I had finally conquered it and reached thalaikundah around 10.30. For a first time hill rider, this was an amazing experience :D

It was almost time to return the bike as I settled for lunch on reaching the hotel. The afternoon was spend leisurely watching the drizzle outside my room. It was 4 and I set out to check the rose garden and do some shopping (read home-made chocolates and tea). As i returned, it was already 5.30 and time to bid adieu to the queen promising to come back sooner or later, hoping for more adventure.

Some info:

I am not going to write about the tourist spots in ooty as you can find those in every possible travel site!

Roads to ooty: There are basically 4 routes to reach ooty from the plains if you are driving on your own:
1. The usual metupalayam-coonoor-ooty
2. Another common one - mysore- gundlupet - bandipur - gudalur -ooty
3. same as above except bandipur - mudumalai - masinagudi - kalhatty - ooty
4. mettupalayam - kothagiri - ooty

Avalanche: The Emarald lake is the only attraction here (if you are looking for places as such). Of course one needs to go here for the serenity, good opportunities for birding and other wildlife sighting as well.
Approach:
1. From coimbatore - karamadai - geddai
2. From ooty - palada -Emerald
Accommodation: Only one forest rest house is available. You need to take permission from the DFO at ooty.
A cozy alternative is Destiny farm stay at Emerald
For more info, read this compendium on avalanche

Mudumalai-masinagudi:
Please refer to my post 'A date with the wild' below

Accomodation in ooty:
If you are a budget traveler, then Hotel tamilnadu and their youth hostel, located very close to the Charring cross and YWCA on Ettines road are the best bets. Both options also offer dorms for students and backpackers.
(P.S: Just to clarify, its just their guest house and men are allowed to stay in YWCA :))

Hiring a bike:

From what I read in various blogs, hiring a motorcycle/bicycle shouldn't be a problem in ooty.
- For bicycle, you can hire at the shop nearby assembly rooms theater on the road leading to botanical gardens ( I guess the name is modern cycle shop)
- For a motorcycle, the person I got from - Saba - +91 94438 97643 . (Note: I dint meet or even speak to him. Everything was arranged by the hotel caretaker)
Charges for motorcycle: Rs.350 for 24 hrs flat