Sunday, October 4, 2009

Of twisting roads and tea plantations

Destination: Munnar, Kerala

Dates: Oct 2,3 2009

It was yet another time that God's own country beckoned me. This time, the choice was much simpler. I was always lured by the charm of endless evergreen carpets of tea plantations in the misty hills of Munnar and I decided to hit the town this weekend. This was going to be my third visit to this place but the only difference was that this time I planned to ride on my motorcycle and was traveling solo.

Started from Chennai in a bus for Udumalaipet (with my bike loaded on to the top) from where I planned to ride to Munnar. But I had to go until Polachi (the last stop) where I could unload the bike. So all set, it was 8 30 in the morning and I started by ride back towards Udumalaipet.

Day 1

Tripmeter
- o.o Km

Reached Udumalaipet around 9 30 after doing some minor checks on my bike and having the breakfast and proceeded towards Chinnar which was 30 kms away.

Windmills near Udumalaipet





Road from Polachi to Udumalaipet


Entering Anaimalai reserve


Reached Chinnar check-post by 10 30 and checked the forest dept's eco-tourism shop to enquire about trekking activities in the region. Finally, decided to go on a short trek for about an hour and 15 minutes. I was accompanied by a local tribal guide, who was 'equipped' with a sickle. The trek was interesting as we went into the jungle. We could spot a herd of sambar deers as the guide was actually trying to track a herd of bisons as he sensed we were close by. Unfortunately, we couldn't spot any other animal till the end.

We could find lots of peacock feathers and a deer carcass apart from dried elephant dung.



Tree house at chinnar



Finally bid good bye to Chinnar by 12 and proceeded towards Munnar. Chinnar is basically a rain-shadow region and does not receive heavy rainfall like Munnar even in the monsoons. The vegetation in chinnar is mostly shrub and deciduous, which is in contrast to other popular wildlife reserves in Kerala like Wayanad, Parambikulam or Periyar.



Another 10 km from the Chinnar checkpost, you can find another eco-tourism shop on the right side from where you can buy a ticket to trek to the magnificient 'Thoovanam waterfalls'.

The gushing Thoovanam waterfalls as viewed from the main road



I could feel the ascent once I crossed Chinnar. After crossing Marayoor, I could finally catch a glimpse of the sprawling tea plantations everywhere.



One of the numerous waterfalls found in the Marayoor - Munnar route



All of a sudden, the drizzle turned into heavy rains. The mist and heavy rainfall lead to zero visibility after crossing the Marayoor gap. Riding in these conditions was challenging but I enjoyed every bit of it! Rajamala was closed due to these conditions and I had to miss the sighting of the elusive nilgiri thar. Stopped on a roadside shop and had hot bread toast. Couldn't have asked for a better lunch!



Lakkom falls



Reached Munnar around 3 pm after battling the heavy downpour and checked into the hotel (Greenview inn in old munnar). Decided not to venture out anywhere for the day as the rains were only going to get worse.



Day 2

Trip meter - 122.1 km

It was still raining and I was now considering a decision to shorten the trip to 2 days. Wanted to ride the Bodi - Madurai route downhill - so booked a ticket from Madurai for the night. Today was going to be hectic. A trip to Top station followed by the 170 km ride to Madurai.

Managed to be up by 8 AM and quickly got ready to ride towards Top station. The road was butter smooth through out until the last 2 kms which falls into TN. There was literally no road in the last 2-3 kms.

The inviting road to Top station



Top station, 32 km from Munnar, is located at 6,200 ft above sea level and falls in Theni district of TN. One could have amazing views of Theni district from here.



Amazing views just before Top station



One could head to the Pampadum shola national park, which offers trekking and camping facilities. This is a 1 km detour on the left side from Top station.



The so called road in the last 2-3 kms towards Top station



Roads until that point (Kerala side)



See the transition?


There used to be a 60 km road to Kodaikanal from here. But its being unused for a long time now and one could only find a trekkable path now. Groups have undertaken this trek from Top station to Berijam lake near Kodaikanal (The 'Escape route' trek).




On the way back to Munnar, there was a lot of traffic towards top station. Being an early bird (at least relatively!) helped me as I had no traffic whatsoever in my direction.

Traffic at Matupetty dam



Exciting views on the way back




Reached the hotel before 12 and prepared to check out and headed for lunch at Saravana Bhavan. It was almost 1, when I was all set to bid good bye to the charming town and start the challenging ride towards Madurai.




The 18 km ride between Munnar and Chinnakanal was heavenly!





Periyakanal waterfalls



25 kms into the ride, I crossed Poopara and the landscape changed completely. The tea plantations had vanished and given way to coconut trees and spice plantations.

Another 10 kms, it was Bodimettu and yet again, into TN. The 25 ride from Bodimettu to Bodi was a typical ghat road experience that you would have in places like Tirupathi. It was quite dry here and the roads were deserted. It was starting to get very monotonous and I started to test 50- 60 KMph.





The final leg, Bodi was Madurai was a 100 km rip fest in the plains. Finally managed to reach Madurai by 6 PM and packed and loaded the bike.

Trip meter - 366.9 km

Lakes, streams, waterfalls, forests, estates, plantations, mist, rains, blind curves, hair pins and so on, this was probably my most adventurous trip till date. What a way to celebrate my birthday, I thought!